Post your prototype/in-progress work here!

March 6, 2016, 6:35 am

≫ Next: modding a 4way square gate to an 8 way gate?

Exactly what the title says. Post any prototypes or project you're working on here, from custom arcade sticks to custom arcade parts.

So I've been working on an updated version of my ergonomic arcade stick. Without getting long winded, I wanted the next version to include the following features:

-Easier to take apart (old one had 4 screws holding the bottom on, I want to reduce that)
-Better fit and finish (I had a few moments were I was a bit too eager to put it together and left out some important touches)
-More aesthetically pleasing body lines (I was still relatively new to working with acrylic with the Mark I, so the edges were never flame polished.)
-More completely protected artwork (the artwork on the mark I is under clear plexi, but the sides are open to the elements.
-Lighting (What doesn't look cooler with lights?)
-To be even MORE ergonomic. (The biased panel under the joystick works, but it would be more comfortable if it was lower.)

Here's a few pictures of the "Mark I" if you've never seen it.

Spoiler

So here's the prototypes I was working on. It's picture intensive, so I broke up the spoiler tags.

Another warning, there are some typos, I love writing on my prototypes but in my fever to create, I don't always spell stuff correctly or even make it readable.

#1: "Conceptual" Prototype:

Spoiler

If it looks like I just took the prototype for the mark I and cut it up, that's EXACTLY what I did! It's just made out of sheets of foam. Foam is easy to cut and sand, and it's cheap! It's the perfect medium for prototyping in my humble opinion.

I mostly did this to give myself an excuse to finally throw away my old prototype. But it did give me something to measure off of and make a proper prototype.

#2: "Proof of concept" Prototype:

Spoiler

Didn't cut everything quite the way I wanted to. It's hard to see from the pictures, but the play area where the joystick is was cut a bit too long.

It feels great when you put your hands on it, but it still has some of the problems the old one had. Clear plexi slapped on top like an afterthought, and the bottom is still going to need 4 screws to hold it together. Just some kinks to work out with the next prototype.

The compass is to show the direction I'd like the joystick to face. It's easier for me to "feel" where the joystick is orientated if I know duck is right where my wrist is.

#3: "Something went wrong" Prototype

Spoiler

Well, the good news is that I figured out how to fix the "artwork security" and "slow access panel" problems. The bottom of the arcade stick will slide into slots on the bottom of the arcade stick and get held on three walls. Then I only need one screw to hold it in place. The play area would also fit into slots to put a lip above the play area. This lip would keep the sides of the artwork safe, and get filled in with the plexi going in on top. But...

...Something went wrong. The program I wrote didn't cut everything quite the way it was suppose to.

Still, I was able to at least see why everything was fitting so poorly. Who needs notepads when you can write directly on your failed prototype?

Though I was initially bummed, I was just glad I didn't make this mistake while cutting acrylic! Oh well, it was time to try again.

#4 "Working" Prototype

Spoiler

Yes, you can plug it into your computer and play fighting games. Hahahaha. Foam is home!

I did have to cut the lip down where my wrists were going to rest. The button area looks like it's popping apart because I made the button holes too small and really had to squeeze those suckers in there! You may also notice I decided to hold it together with hot glue instead of tape.

Gotta orientate those holes just perfect for the joystick.

Yea, I forgot to make a hole for the wire... That's why we prototype!

The bottom is here...

And now it's out! In the final version, I'll solvent weld a tab for the screw to fasten to.

And now let's have a look under the bonnet...

That's a ps3/PC zero encoder pcb, since I'm going to use this on my computer. Typically a solder-less install, but I ordered an american harnas to hook up to my american joystick with the idea that I could crimp those suckers onto the Japanese buttons. Somehow, I got a Japanese harness with American connectors. I figured I could go cry to my supplier, but I wanted to get this thing done. So I was a bad enough dude to reconfigure the harness to work on my American joystick. Turns out the American disconnects fit on the Japanese buttons just fine, and my arcade stick design is so out there that the wires wouldn't have reached even if I got all the correct parts. So it wasn't all bad.

And yes, that enlarged aluminum actuator is a custom design by yours truly. It makes the American joystick more responsive, shrinks the dead zone, and makes the joystick function like it has a square gate.But this is a prototyping topic, so I'll talk about that more at another time.

#5 "Feels good!" Prototype

Spoiler

This last prototype is just to make sure everything's good to go.

Cut to thousandths of perfection around the wire. In the final version, I'll trap the wire with a piece of acrylic and solvent weld it in place.

Here's the wire from the other side. I did have to grove that out to get the wire to fit juuuust right.

Did I mention I love my camera? I scaled down all these photos by like 1/5 the resolution. Cannon powershot is amazing!

Final version will have wooden dowels that I can screw/glue to from the underside, removing ugly screws from the center of my play field.

Larger button holes, easier to squeeze the buttons in. The final version will pretty much lock directly into the clear plexi on top.

The slots that hold the bottom in place. Action is so smooth!

I forgot to mention that I made the button side about an inch lower, since the Japanese buttons don't take up as much room as the american ones. I do plan on doing lighting, but I shouldn't need a prototype to help with that.

Anyway, that's about it, hope you enjoyed! It'll be a while longer before it's finished, but you'll see it in the arcade stick thread when it's done.

So, anyone else got stuff to share?

↧

modding a 4way square gate to an 8 way gate?

March 8, 2016, 2:34 am

≫ Next: Modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3

≪ Previous: Post your prototype/in-progress work here!

is it possible to mod a square joystick gate into an 8 way gate? i have a hori mini 4.
im using this for a long wile before i can get a much better arcade stick. im trying to find my options on modding the gate for the hori mini 4.
ive learned i can NOT stand a square gate. if not i assume i can use a sanwa octo gate.
preferably this one
https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-gt-y-octagonal-restrictor-gate/

but ive heard i have to modify some screw holes.

im using this for a long wile before i can get a much better arcade stick.

anyone have any helpful tips or advice?

↧

Modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3

August 7, 2007, 1:52 pm

≫ Next: The Link: The Quick-Disconnect JLF Shaft!

≪ Previous: modding a 4way square gate to an 8 way gate?

I've looked everywhere with no luck. I was hoping someone would direct me to a tutorial or help me with modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3 with sanwa or happ parts. Is this a difficult task?

Any help will be appreciated.

↧

The Link: The Quick-Disconnect JLF Shaft!

May 23, 2011, 11:55 pm

≫ Next: Help me modify my Venom Arcade stick.

≪ Previous: Modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3

The Link is a new JLF shaft design that is purposed to allow easy storage for all kinds of players. The casual players looking to save a little space, and for traveling tournament players who need every inch when cramming into a full car.

The new design is a two piece steel construction. When in place, the Link is identical in height, allowing for you to drop it right into your current arcade stick that has a Sanwa JLF and feel no difference. The diameter of the center collar is perfect size so that you can keep your current dust washer, however the shaft cover will have to go!

Compared to the original shaft, the Link is nearly identical. The few base changes are the collar locking/unlocking mechanic and the hollow construction to cut down on any added weight, as well as allow for future mods such as LEDs.

Another key difference is in how the top is changed out. In the old design you had to utilize the flat head screwdriver slot to get ample torque to tighten the top enough not to loosen. In the new design, the center of the top section has been keyed for a 3mm hex bit, allowing for a more streamlined approach. This is the same size required to take the top panel off of a TE, which makes install that much easier.

Here's a quick overview I've done, please excuse the horrible quality... video stuff isn't my thing these days.

[media=youtube]v4SLrNZ8tGQ[/media]

Extra Install Notes:

1. If you're installing it into a Madcatz TE or one that has the second dust washer that lies on top of the pivot bushing, REMOVE THAT INNER DUST WASHER.

They (and some others) have 2 in the stick, one on the control panel (which is fine) and an inner one that rests underneath the control panel, right over the pivot bushing. That inner one will cause problems, both in coupling the pieces together and connection, remove it and you'll save yourself headache.

Sticks to note that may have the inner (under the control panel) dust washer that must be removed:

Madcatz TE/SE
Qanba

2.Custom plexi dustwashers may have an adverse affect. If you find it's popping out during play and you have a custom dust washer. Remove said dustwasher and test the compared performance, you should see an improvement. A workaround to this is to put a counter-sink into the inner-diameter of that dustwasher, as it will alleviate problematic pressure on the collar of the Link from that hard angle.

FAQ

JLF Only?

If this takes off, and there's enough interest, the "Link technology" so-to-speak, can be ported to any style shaft out there. Get interest in the current Link JLF and you can probably expect another type.

How do I install a it?

If you're completely in unfamiliar territory, I suggest hitting up Youtube with just a "JLF Install" search string to cover your bases. It's an extremely simple swap, with minor tools required, however Vicko has done a fantastic job overviewing how to install it into his HRAP and TE-S.

[media=youtube]7cnPH4y9oUU[/media]
[media=youtube]l-YPvkNtiMo[/media]

Will it come apart without engaging the collar ever?

In short, yes it can, but only if you exert upward force that's unnatural to standard play. There is a yield strength, it hasn't been exact weight tested yet, but it won't come apart unless you're aiming to make it happen. It will not, and I repeat, NOT come apart during normal play if you do not touch the collar, that is a guarantee.

This is something I'm looking into and perhaps in future runs this performance will improve, but for now I HIGHLY recommend against lifting up the stick by your ball/bat top.

What do I do about the hole left after it's been disconnected?

It depends on the user's preference, but a 24mm button cap works just fine if you have something with a diameter that works for it. A TE, for example has a hole that works, an HRAP doesn't. Just do a quick measurement, but if you do definitely snap the tabs off... that'd be such a bitch to remove if you don't, lol. The Link is made of 416 Stainless Steel, it is magnetic so you can get creative... or just cover it with painters tape during travel.

Below is a picture of someone not only showing off a hitbox/standard style hybrid stick, but also the use of a plug to cover the hole when it's not required.

Otherwise, you can get a cap I did a quick design for here.. it locks to the base piece, and ignores the hole size. The only catch is it sits a little taller so that you can put the dust cover underneath and be as thick as the custom plexi ones, so if you don't have one it wobbles slightly.

http://www.shapeways.com/model/1326987/link-jlf-u-cap-lp-shelledflange.html?li=shop-results&materialId=6

Feel free to download the design and edit it to your liking if you have the means to do it.

I got it and put it together, but it looks like the collar piece doesn't go all the way back down when locked together.

This is normal behavior, future iterations may behave slightly different but for now this is OK.

Quick diagram courtesy of Freedom Gundam:

*Update to the above picture/description

New adjustments have removed much of the space shown above, and as such has also increased the linking strength, below is a comparison of the old vs. new, you will see a big difference in how far the collar goes down.

How do I order one?

You can pick one up at any of these retailers:

Focus Attack
Paradise Arcade Shop
Jasen's Customs

↧

Help me modify my Venom Arcade stick.

March 9, 2016, 5:46 am

≫ Next: 360/Pc Hitbox Style Stick - Best way to make it PS4 Compatible

≪ Previous: The Link: The Quick-Disconnect JLF Shaft!

Hello everyone this is my first post on SRK and i would like to ask the lovely people here for some help and guidance to modify my newly acquired arcade stick.
https://venomuk.com/get/arcade-stick/

This is my first ever arcade stick and i bought it because they see it is easy to customise and improve the controls of significantly with Sanwa parts.

Now my question is which Sanwa parts should i go for and could you post me the amazon links to said parts as well as any tutorials guides that could help me a long the way.

Please note im a moron when it comes to acronyms so please explain stuff to me as if im a 5 year old.

Many thanks and cheers for having me in this community.

↧

360/Pc Hitbox Style Stick - Best way to make it PS4 Compatible

March 9, 2016, 5:39 pm

≫ Next: Arcade Shock making their own stick

≪ Previous: Help me modify my Venom Arcade stick.

i have a hitbox style stick with a x360 fightpad pcb which works fine on pc/x360

the issue i have right now is that the local scene guys use all or most of em the ps4 version
of sf5 so i have to do something to make my hitbox work on the ps4.

first thing which came to my mind was the brook converter.
i had the chance to test it with a other hitbox on a ps4 and the first thing i noticed is
that shortcuts doesnt work the same way as they do on my hitbox on pc/x360 which
you can use the same way on a keyboard so that option would be none for me because
i really dont want to relearn how to use my hitbox.

and with that there seem to be just the option to swap or dual mod the stick with another pcb.
which one can you recommend in term of being as lagless as possible and easy to use in term
of modding the stick?

ps: i know there is a general tech thread but its such a specific question i thought its better to create a new thread for it.

↧

Arcade Shock making their own stick

March 7, 2016, 9:33 pm

≫ Next: fightstick question

≪ Previous: 360/Pc Hitbox Style Stick - Best way to make it PS4 Compatible

What do you guys think of Arcade Shock coming out with their own stick? I don't know about proprietary arcade parts though, but its nice to see another company throw their 2 cents into the stick game.

↧

fightstick question

March 10, 2016, 3:48 am

≫ Next: Replacement bases for gamerfinger buttons¿

≪ Previous: Arcade Shock making their own stick

looked around couldn't find a solution to the issue so i have a question.

i have the new Madcatz SFV TES+ fightstick ps3/ps4

i hear that ps3 ps4 sticks work on pc

i run windows 7. plugged ti in and it all seems to work fine in windows (win game controllers testing) but it doesn't work in SFV or anything else.

can anyone confirm if this stick would work if i upgraded to windows 10?

↧

Replacement bases for gamerfinger buttons¿

March 9, 2016, 8:52 am

≫ Next: New Hori Pad FPS Plus (PS4)

≪ Previous: fightstick question

Hi all,

I broke the tabs on a bunch of my buttons removing them from a too tight plexi...Obviously I'd rather not splash out on all new buttons when I only require bases.

I see no options for bases only. Anyone have any experience?

↧

New Hori Pad FPS Plus (PS4)

June 25, 2015, 2:37 pm

≫ Next: PDP Marvel Vs Capcom 3 Fight Pad PCB Diagram (Not suitable for Dual Mod)

≪ Previous: Replacement bases for gamerfinger buttons¿

Japanese video game peripheral maker Hori has announced what could be the best PlayStation 4 controller you can buy.

The D-pad, face buttons and triggers also support turbo — the ability to turn a single button press into a rapid-fire one.

Missing on the controller is the DualShock 4's light bar, Six-Axis motion sensor and a port for connecting a gaming headset. Pretty big oversights if you ask me, since it means the controller is wired and won't work with the PlayStation Camera (no logging into your PS4 with your face) and no voice chat. But at the very least the cable is 10-feet long.

The HoriPad FPS Plus will cost 4,580 yen (about $37) when it hits Japan in July. If you don't live in Japan, it'll probably pop up on online import stores like Play-Asia soon after its release.

↧

PDP Marvel Vs Capcom 3 Fight Pad PCB Diagram (Not suitable for Dual Mod)

March 6, 2011, 3:03 pm

≫ Next: Madcatz fightstick PS4 to Xbox one

≪ Previous: New Hori Pad FPS Plus (PS4)

PDP Marvel Vs Capcom 3 Fight Pad PCB Diagram
Thought I'd share. Yep it is common ground.

Edit: Does not work well for a dual mod situation.

I was able to dual mod this for my mini stick cases with a MC Cthulhu.

↧

Madcatz fightstick PS4 to Xbox one

March 10, 2016, 6:58 pm

≫ Next: Best Playstation/2 to USB Converter?

≪ Previous: PDP Marvel Vs Capcom 3 Fight Pad PCB Diagram (Not suitable for Dual Mod)

Does anyone know if the madcatz TES+ shadaloo fight stick can become compatible with the xbox one if i use a brook converter ?

http://store.madcatz.com/categories/fightsticks-category/Street-Fighter-5-Arcade-FightStick-Tournament-Edition-S-for-PS4-PS3.html

↧

Best Playstation/2 to USB Converter?

March 10, 2016, 6:57 pm

≫ Next: Hori Hayabusa Switches?

≪ Previous: Madcatz fightstick PS4 to Xbox one

I'm looking for the a good converter, preferably something that supports both analog pads as well as digital-only pads like the Saturn PS2 pad or the Hori Fighting Commander for the PS1. Also would hope for one with absolutely to input lag, assuming such a device exists.

↧

Hori Hayabusa Switches?

March 8, 2016, 10:49 pm

≫ Next: Sanwa shaft and dust cover fits on LS-40-01?

≪ Previous: Best Playstation/2 to USB Converter?

So I've realized my Hori Hayabusa has become irresponsive in it's down direction input, and down right or down left (e.g. if I'm crouch blocking, it'll register on the game as me moving back, or if I'm crouch forward to do a crouching [med kick, punch, etc] it will register as me moving forward)

I checked if it was the actuator and I'm running a Kowal;however, the Kowal is making contact with the switches just fine and clicks, so I realized this has to be an issue with the switches. The Hayabusa+Kowal have been working great for the past 2 years that I got it. Then as of recent, I realized it has been having some minor issues with the directionals, and fast forward a few more months, it just got worse to the point where I can't play/rely on it.

Does anyone have any recommendations for which switches to use (Good brands, same amount of force for it to actuate)

I looked into this at Focus Attack but not sure if that's the recommended part: https://www.focusattack.com/cherry-d44x-75g-187-microswitch/

Thanks in advance.

↧

Sanwa shaft and dust cover fits on LS-40-01?

March 10, 2016, 10:41 pm

≫ Next: Definitive Retail Playstation 4 Arcade Sticks List with Info/Facts/Photos/Advantages/Disadvantages

≪ Previous: Hori Hayabusa Switches?

Would a Sanwa shaft and dust cover fit a LS-40-01 without modifications?

↧

Definitive Retail Playstation 4 Arcade Sticks List with Info/Facts/Photos/Advantages/Disadvantages

March 4, 2015, 12:32 am

≫ Next: Gaming monitor for PS4 24" or 27"?

≪ Previous: Sanwa shaft and dust cover fits on LS-40-01?

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

This list will be incomplete for at least a decade. If you have information we are missing, please provide it for the sake of all who can utilize this info.
This is not a tier list. Learn from the information and use it to your advantage.

and please don't image quote.

If you have general arcade stick questions, please ask in the "Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)" thread
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/194283/absolute-question-and-answer-thread-v-3-ask-your-questions-here/p1

If you desire information on other arcade sticks that are not listed here please visit the "What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting." thread
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/137321/what-stick-controller-should-i-buy-read-the-guide-on-pg-1-before-posting/p1

LIST OF ARCADE STICKS IN ORDER OF WHICH THEY APPEAR BELOW

=Hori BlazBlue Chrono Phantasma Extend Arcade Stick
=Hori Fighting Stick Mini 4
=Hori RAP 4 Premium VLX Kuro
=Hori Dead or Alive 5 Last Round (Grouped with RAP 4 Kai and RAP.V Hayabusa sticks due to same/similar base/parts despite not holding the RAP name)
=Hori RAP 4 Kai
=Hori RAP 4 Kai Silent
=Hori RAP.V Hayabusa
=Hori RAP.V Hayabusa (v2)
=Hori RAP.V Silent Hayabusa
=Hori RAP.V Silent Hayabusa (v2)
=Hori RAP.V4
=Hori RAP.V4 Silent
=Mad Catz Alpha Street Fighter V
=Mad Catz TE2 Standard
=Mad Catz TE2 Guilty Gear Xrd -SIGN-
=Mad Catz TE2 Persona 4 Arena Ultimax
=Mad Catz TE2 Ultra Street Fighter IV
=Mad Catz TE2 Ultra Street Fighter IV Rivals
=Mad Catz TE2 Street Fighter V Chun-Li
=Mad Catz TE2+ Street Fighter V Ryu
=Mad Catz TES+ Street Fighter V Shadowloo
=Sanwa/Arc System Works Guilty Gear Xrd -SIGN- Arcade Stick
=Venom/Mayflash Arcade Stick

+ Is a positive feature
- Is a negative feature
= Is neutral or general information

Hori BlazBlue Chrono Phantasma Extend Arcade Stick

More images (Promo/Stock/BoxFront/BoxBack/Bottom/Interior)-

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195201/new-hori-blazblue-stick

Release Date-
=Early to Mid 2015 (Unsure of exact month)

Case-
-Hori budget stick case (Same as Fighting Stick V3)
=Width = 335mm, Depth = 230mm, Height (including lever) = 110mm
=Weight (1.5kg)
-No touchpad
-No cord compartment

Metal Panels-
=Top metal panel (standard)
-No bottom metal panel

Plexi/Art-
=Licensed artwork for BlazBlue Chrono Phantasma Extend
=No default plexi
=Plexi options will not likely be available for this stick via 3rd party plexi providers
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Small rubber feet
-No padding

Joystick-
-Hori generic joystick listed on Japanese website as "Standard Lever"
-Joystick has individual microswitches not a PCB with 5pin connector
-Difficult to change lever out to Sanwa/Seimitsu without heavy modification detailed HERE on V3 stick with same base
=PCB may have pin connector for Hayabusa/Sanwa/Seimitsu 5 pin connector (unconfirmed)

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro Buttons

PCB-
=Insufficient information
=PCB may have pin connector for Hayabusa/Sanwa/Seimitsu 5 pin connector (unconfirmed)
=PCB may have pin connector for touchpad (unconfirmed)

Wiring-
=Quick disconnects for buttons and joystick directionals
-Below average wiring (Detailed below)
-No pin headers/connectors for any directionals or action buttons. Wires are soldered into thru hole and glued in place

USB Cable-
=Cable Length (3m)

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
-PCB needs testing and comparison to existing Hori PCBs

Hori Fighting Stick Mini 4 for PS4/PS3

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/204975/hori-fighting-commander-ps3-ps4-pc-xinput-fighting-stick-mini-4-with-hayabusa-like-joystick

More images (Promo/Stock)-

Release Date-
=December 2015

SRK Front Page article -
http://shoryuken.com/2015/11/20/hori-fighting-stick-mini-4-now-available-through-arcade-shock

Case-
-Hori Mini Case (New/Original Design)
=Weight (1 lb)
=Dimensions (7 x 4.8 x 9 inches)
=8 button design
-No touchpad (Assumption based on stock photos and price)
-No cord compartment (Assumption based on stock photos)

Metal Panels-
=Insufficient information
-No metal panels (Assumption based on stock photos and price)

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options will not likely be available for this stick via 3rd party plexi providers

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Insufficient information
-No rubber feet (Assumption based on stock photos)

Joystick-
=Insufficient information
-Budget Hori joystick (Assumption based on price)

Buttons-
=Insufficient information
-Budget Hori buttons (Assumption based on price)

PCB-
=Insufficient information

Wiring-
=Insufficient information

USB Cable-
=Wired

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
-PCB needs testing and comparison to existing Hori PCBs

Hori RAP4 Premium VLX
- Real Arcade Pro 4 Premium VLX Kuro for PS4 & PS3

More images (Promo/Stock/Box/Top/Interior/Mods/PCB)-

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195793/the-hori-ps4-vlx-thread

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Case-
Hori VLX Case (Same as VLX models for PS3/360)
=Sizes - Width = 570mm, Depth = 260mm, Height (including lever) = 140mm
=Weight (5.4kg/11.9lbs)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
+Touch panel is present
=Has cord compartment but door is flimsy as usual with all sticks

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
+Replacement metal panels will be offered via @"Jasen Hicks" of Jasen's Customs

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=Plexi option is difficult for 3rd party plexi providers to provide due to the dimensions/size of the panel. May be offered by @"Jasen Hicks" in the future

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Padding
=Does not include the bonus stability base previously provided with the first 2 runs of VLX Premium sticks

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons

PCB-
=Common ground PCB but needs diodes in order to multi-mod. A step by step how to was done by @yoooooon - I've resized/rehosted the images for backup/archive purposes and the details can also be seen in the below spoiler tag-

yoooooon wrote: »

Hi guys,

I finally got around to dual modding this for Xbox 360. Man, it's a pain in the ass.

Here's some things to keep in mind if you give this a shot.

1. As mentioned previously, you'll need diodes. I found a suggestion somewhere on SRK saying to use 1N914B diodes, which I bought 300 on eBay for like $8 dollars. Try to avoid overpaying for them since you need at least 15 for one dual mod. Here's an example of ones I've used and they've worked. Someone may have better suggestions. Here's a pic of the pack I bought.

2. The anode (side without the line marker) needs to go towards the hori pcb, and the cathode (the side with the marker) needs to go to a central barrier strip. You'll need I believe 15 of these wires with the diode in line. I would suggest not putting the diode in the middle of the wire and towards one of the sides so that when you cover it up, you'll know the orientation by the placement of the diode. Here's a pic of one I made.

3. Here's how the PCB works. I did this from memory so I need to double check this, but I believe it's correct. One thing to note, the row of pins that are closer to the middle are the signal lines (the points at which you use your diode wires), the grounds and other wires you will not need wires with diodes. Back and PS home you will need diode wires. (Those might be reversed in the picture, but I'm sure it's those two pins.)

4. Instead of wiring to the pins on the PCB, I used a 30-pin header to wire to instead. I personally try to do minimal mods to the actual stick so everything can be reversed back to stock if need be. I know, weird. Here's a sample of what it looks like. I had to use an exacto knife to get this one to fit, but it wasn't too much work.

5. Some in progress wiring. The way I had it wired is to have everything lead to a central barrier strip from the two pcbs. This includes signal lines from the HORI pcb (with diodes) and signal lines from the xbox pad linking to the new button and joystick wiring I hooked up. One thing to remember is that for back/select and PS Home to work, you'll have to intercept the signal from the hori pcb from the 4 and 6 wire headers at the top of the pcb. I used a jewelers sized flat head screwdriver to lift up the tab on the wire and pull it out. I then hooked up wire to that and had it go into the button array. Here's some in-progress wiring.

6. Getting close. My wiring is still a rats nest, but something I will eventually clean up. However, EVERYTHING IS WORKING! If you noticed, I used pin headers to wire up the usb cable so I didn't have to cut anything up.

The main reason why I wired it this way with a barrier strip was so that I could easily change out the Xbox 360 pad to any future dual mod pad that I need to without too much headache.

The mod in a nutshell - I believe - you need diodes on the signal lines from the hori pcb, you need a central point at which the two padhacks connect, and you need to do special wiring to the PS Home and back/select button to get those to work. If you don't care about those then you can just leave it as is.

Hope this helps anyone that's looking to give this a try.

Wiring-
=Clean wiring uses very nice quick disconnect ends and an IDE/PATA style ribbon cable from PCB to action buttons and 5 pin joystick connector

USB Cable-
=Wired
=Cable length (3m/9.8ft)

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
To Edit

Hori Dead or Alive 5 Last Round Arcade Stick
-Hori Dead or Alive 5 Last Round for PS4 & PS3
Not considered a Hori Real Arcade Pro by name, but is the exact same base and PCB as other sticks bearing the RAP in name

More images (Promo/Stock/BoxFront/BoxBack/Bottom/Interior/PCB)-

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/194638/hori-ps4-ps3-dead-or-alive-5-last-round-stick/p1

Release Date-
=Early 2015 (February or March? Unsure of exact month)

Case-
Hori Case (New form factor upgrade from RAPV3/RAPVX/RAPV4 style where buttons are now on the side instead of on top/face)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Sizes DoA5LR - Width = 430mm, Depth = 237mm, Height (including lever) = 114mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
+PS4 touch panel on back
+Analog sticks mounted on front of stick (They are removable by opening up case SEE PHOTOS)
+Cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
=Vewlix layout with standard spread between joystick and buttons

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=No current 3rd party plexi options. Tek-Innovations may offer in 2016

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four small rubber feet

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons

PCB-
=Unsure if common ground PCB. May exist some type of dual mod issues where signals are held high/low if variable. Needs more research.
=Multiple PCBs (main PCB, side PCB, touch screen)
=Touch screen PCB is connected to main PCB using a small ribbon cable
=Side PCB, joystick, USB cable, and analog sticks are connected to main PCB using standard pin connectors
-Buttons are connected to main PCB by solder and glue

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment
=Cable length (3m)

Hori RAP 4 Kai
-Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai for PS4 & PS3

More images (Promo/Stock/BoxFront/BoxBack/Bottom/Interior/PCB)-

SRKTT thread (HRAP4Kai)-
HRAP 4 Kai thread was merged with the HRAP.V4 thread.
Go to page 6 to see coverage for the HRAP 4 Kai. The first 5 pages are for the older base model HRAP.V4 and HRAP.V4 Silent
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/189004/hori-hrap-v4-announced-compatible-with-ps3-and-ps4

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Case-
Hori Case (New form factor upgrade from RAPV3/RAPVX/RAPV4 style where buttons are now on the side instead of on top/face)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Width = 430mm, Depth = 237mm, Height (including lever) = 114mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
=PS4 touch panel on back
+Cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
=Vewlix layout with wider spread between joystick and buttons

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=Plexi is available via Tek-Innovations.com

Bottom Padding/Feet-
+Padding on bottom
-No rubber feet

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons

PCB-
=Common ground PCB. May exist some type of dual mod issues where signals are held high/low if variable. Need to discuss with modders more.
=Multiple PCBs (main PCB, side PCB, touch screen)
=Touch screen PCB is connected to main PCB using a small ribbon cable
=Side PCB is connected to main PCB using two standard molex style connectors
=Joystick is connected to main PCB using a standard molex style connector
-Buttons are connected to main PCB by solder and glue
=USB cable is connected to main PCB by using a standard molex style connector

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment
=Cable length (3m)

Hori RAP 4 Kai Silent
-Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai Silent for PS4 & PS3

More images (Promo/Stock/BoxFront/BoxBack/Bottom/Interior/PCB) COMING SOON NOT DONE YET -

insert extra photos here

SRKTT thread-
Go to page 6 to see coverage for the HRAP 4 Kai and it's Silent twin. The first 5 pages are for the older base model HRAP.V4 and HRAP.V4 Silent
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/189004/hori-hrap-v4-announced-compatible-with-ps3-and-ps4

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Case-
Hori Case (New form factor upgrade from RAPV3/RAPVX/RAPV4 style where buttons are now on the side instead of on top/face)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Width = 430mm, Depth = 237mm, Height (including lever) = 114mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
=PS4 touch panel on back
+Cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
=Vewlix layout with wider spread between joystick and buttons

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=Plexi is available via Tek-Innovations.com

Bottom Padding/Feet-
+Padding on bottom
-No rubber feet

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick with optical PCB

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons with silencer pads

PCB-
=Common ground PCB. May exist some type of dual mod issues where signals are held high/low if variable. Need to discuss with modders more.
=Multiple PCBs (main PCB, side PCB, touch screen)
=Touch screen PCB is connected to main PCB using a small ribbon cable
=Side PCB is connected to main PCB using two standard molex style connectors
=Joystick is connected to main PCB using a standard molex style connector
-Buttons are connected to main PCB by solder and glue
=USB cable is connected to main PCB by using a standard molex style connector

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment
=Cable length (3m)

Hori RAP.V
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3 (version 1 - Kuro buttons)
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3 (version 2 - Hayabusa buttons)
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V Silent Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3 (version 1 - Kuro buttons)
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V Silent Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3 (version 2 - Hayabusa buttons)

SRKTT thread-
Go to page 6 to see coverage for the HRAP V Hayabusa (version 1). The first 5 pages are for the older base model HRAP.V4 and HRAP.V4 Silent
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/189004/hori-hrap-v4-announced-compatible-with-ps3-and-ps4

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Case-
Hori Case (New form factor upgrade from RAPV3/RAPVX/RAPV4 style where buttons are now on the side instead of on top/face)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Width = 430mm, Depth = 237mm, Height (including lever) = 114mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
=PS4 touch panel on back
+Cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
=Vewlix layout with standard spread between joystick and buttons

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=No 3rd party plexi options yet. Tek-Innovations may offer in future

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four small rubber feet

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick
=RAP.V Silent uses optical switches with a Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons
=RAP.V Silent uses foam pads inside the normal Hori Kuro buttons
=RAP.V Hayabusa (version 2) uses new Hayabusa buttons which have a matte finish

PCB-
=Common ground PCB. May exist some type of dual mod issues where signals are held high/low if variable. Need to discuss with modders more.
=Multiple PCBs (main PCB, side PCB, touch screen)
=Touch screen PCB is connected to main PCB using a small ribbon cable
=Side PCB is connected to main PCB using two standard molex style connectors
=Joystick is connected to main PCB using a standard molex style connector
-Buttons are connected to main PCB by solder and glue
=USB cable is connected to main PCB by using a standard molex style connector
+XInput is active on the PCB for HRAP.V Hayabusa (Version 2) and will likely be present on the HRAP.V Silent Hayabusa (Version 2) as well

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment
=Cable length (3m)

Hori RAP V4 - Hori RAP V4 Silent
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V4 Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V4 Silent Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/189004/hori-hrap-v4-announced-compatible-with-ps3-and-ps4

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Modding guide/documentation via @Darksakul -
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/8852461/#Comment_8852461

Case-
Hori Case (Same as RAPV3/RAPVX/UMvC3/DoA models for PS3/360)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Sizes - Width = 430mm, Depth = 240mm, Height (including lever) = 125mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
+Tek Innovations does have plexi option (Same as V3/VX non-Kai)

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four small rubber feet

Joystick-
=RAP v4 Silent uses optical switches with a Hori Hayabusa joystick
=RAP v4 Standard uses microswitches with a Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=RAP v4 Standard uses normal Hori Kuro buttons
=RAP v4 Silent uses foam pads inside the normal Hori Kuro buttons

PCB-
=Common ground. Unsure if active high/low. Unsure if able to multi-mod without complications due to insufficient testing.
+Easy to remove main PCB from base
=Button signals/grounds, and USB cable are soldered to PCB while joystick connector and ribbon cables to Turbo/Home PCB are removable from main PCB

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment

Madcatz Street Fighter V FightStick ALPHA for PS4/PS3

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/202351/madcatz-street-fighter-v-fightstick-alpha

Release Date-
=Unknown

SRK Front Page article via @d3v -
http://shoryuken.com/2015/08/31/mad-catz-unveils-street-fighter-v-arcade-stick-and-controller

Case-
Fightstick Alpha Case (New/Original Design)
=Weight (Unknown)
=Dimentions (Unknown)
=6 button Vewlix design

Metal Panels-
=Unknown

Plexi/Art-
=Unlikely to have any future plexi option due to case design (No where to screw in plexi and curved base front)

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Has some type of padding (Specifics unknown)
=Does not appear to have feet in stock photo (Unknown)

Joystick-
=Unknown

Buttons-
=Unknown

PCB-
=Unknown

Wiring-
=Unknown

USB Cable-
=Wired
=Unknown if cable is removable

Madcatz TE2 USFIV/GGXrd/P4AU
-Mad Catz Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Guilty Gear Xrd -SIGN- Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Persona 4 Arena Ultimax Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Ultra Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Ultra Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3 Rivals
-Mad Catz Street Fighter V Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 Chun-Li for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Street Fighter V Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2+ for PS4 & PS3 (Ryu Artwork)

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/190326/official-usfiv-ggxrd-p4u-te2-thread

Case-
TE2 Case (Same on XB1/PS3/PS4/360 versions)
=Weight (Unknown)
=Width/Length/Height with Balltop (Unknown)
=Base consists of multiple heavy duty plastic pieces screwed together
=Interior of case has roughly 5.5cm of height space for mounting PCBs and/or storage
=Side hinge clasps are metal, front hinge clasp is plastic
+Hinges can be nice for replacing parts and storage for extra buttons etc
+Comes with reversible screwdriver flat/hex for maintenance needs
+Replacement sides and bezels offered on Madcatz website for customization options
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles and releases means there will be plenty 3rd party customization options in the future
+Curve of base on back makes it difficult to accidentally press the arcade stick against an object and hit the Start/Select buttons
-Hinges don't clasp as solid as they should causing a small give with pressure

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
-Sanwa/Seimitsu screw-ins not compatible with Kick1 due to nut being in way of joystick mounting plate unless you pry up the end of mounting plate

Plexi/Art-
=Multiple types of default plexis depending on which stick was purchased and when it was purcahsed (Will be referred to as Old Plexi and New Plexi)
=Default plexi goes around the buttons instead of under them. This has both advantages and disadvantages as listed below
+All Default Plexi: Default plexi easy to remove for replacing artwork without having to remove wires/quickdisconnects/buttons
-All Default Plexi: Default plexi doesn't always sit 100% securely as it's not being held down by buttons

=Default Old Plexi is 1/8" thick in the center but 1/16" thick along the sides where the border/bezel sits on top
+Default Old Plexi: (needs advantages listed here)
-Default Old Plexi: (needs disadvantages listed here)

=Default New Plexi is 1/32" thick and is placed under the bezel
+Default New Plexi: (needs advantages listed here)
-Default New Plexi: (needs disadvantages listed here)

=Tek Innovations does have replacement plexi option 1/16 thickness that sits underneath the buttons and bezel. 1/32 thickness will be offered in future.

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Has a foam padding
=Does not have feet
+Good for lap
-Slides a bit on hard flat surfaces

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT

Buttons-
+Sanwa OBSF-30 and OBSF-24
-These buttons utilize clear rings that allow the button to rise and be flush with the clear top panel
-A few reported issues of stock buttons being shipped with broken or loose tabs likely due to rough installation during assembly.

PCB-
+Common ground. Possible to multi-mod.
+Removable plastic cover from internal USB plug allows removal of PCB easy which neutralizes any issue of short USB wires soldered to bottom of PCB.
+LED PCB (Basic) is offered on Madcatz website for customization options
+LED PCB aka "LVT3" (Super customizable) is offered by Paradise Arcade Shop for customization options
+Touchpad is present on the new SFV TE2+ model with Ryu art (Unsure if this will be common for future TE2 sticks)

Wiring-
+Clean wiring using an PATA/IDE style ribbon cable connector on PCB to 20 color coded wires (10 signal 10 ground) to buttons.
=Quick disconnects have a tab on them. This has both advantages and disadvantages as listed below.
+You won't experience a quick disconnect becoming loose due to the tab
-Pressing down release tab on each individual wire can be tough for those with big fingers and is much more difficult to remove than usual disconnects

USB Cable-
=Removable proprietary "ProCable" using a circular 5 pin DIN style connector. This has both advantages and disadvantages as listed below
=Screws into connector on back of arcade stick base. Can prevent disconnection of signal if cord is pulled which can be good or bad depending on situation.
+Removable cable
-Must order ProCable replacements from Madcatz. May have luck finding as "MLG ProCable"
=Replacement connector to make your own ProCables may be "Model PMDX-5Pin" (Unconfirmed)

Madcatz Street Fighter V Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition S+ for PS4 & PS3

SRKTT thread-
=Insufficient information

Release Date-
=Insufficient information

SRK Front Page article -
http://shoryuken.com/2015/12/03/mad-catz-unveils-line-of-street-fighter-v-arcade-sticks-fightpads/

Case-
Madcatz TE/TE-S base modified from original base (Unsure how different interior plastic mold base is yet)
=Weight (Unknown)
=Dimentions (Unknown)
=8 button Vewlix design

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
-Sanwa/Seimitsu screw-ins not compatible with Kick1 due to nut being in way of joystick mounting plate unless you pry up the end of mounting plate

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options from 3rd party supplies like Tek Innovations is possible but due to new turbo area may have to be remeasured
=If you choose to remove the turbo area, mount PCB in interior of case, and make buttons for Home/Turbo/L3/R3/Touchpad etc elsewhere on case, you could
get the existing TE/TE-S plexi option from Tek Innovations with no turbo area cut and it should fit properly. Will have to verify the joystick and button holes are exact same as previous TE1/TE-S models

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Unsure if has padding on bottom
=Does appear to have feet in stock photos

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT

Buttons-
+Sanwa OBSF-30 & OBSF-24

PCB-
=Insufficient information

Wiring-
=Insufficient information

USB Cable-
=Wired
=Unknown if cable is removable

Sanwa/Arc System Works Guilty Gear Xrd -SIGN- Arcade Stick (Unsure if official name)

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/194900/

SRK Front Page article-
http://shoryuken.com/2014/09/12/arc-system-works-and-sanwa-denshi-releasing-arcade-stick-alongside-guilty-gear-xrd-sign-console-launch/

Case-
Original Case
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Sizes - Width = 360mm, Depth = 280mm, Height (including lever) = 110mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
-Has open area cord compartment in back with no flap

Metal Panels-
=Has top metal panel
-Does not have bottom metal panel

Plexi/Art-
+Default Plexi
+Comes with 3 different pieces of art for under plexi
=Default plexi goes around the buttons instead of under them allowing easy art swap

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Foam padding

Joystick-
=Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT

Buttons-
=Sanwa OBSF-30 and OBSF-24
=Sega Noir Button Layout

PCB-
=No information

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=2.5 meters

Venom Arcade Stick (Made by Mayflash?)

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195434/venom-arcade-stick-ps4-ps3

Guide newbie thread on how to customize/mod-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/202199/newbie-guide-venom-ps4-full-sanwa-mod-with-octo-for-116-uk-pricing

Case-
Existing retail photos look like same build to the Mayflash V2 arcade stick for PS3/360/PC
=Width = 320mm, Depth = 260mm, Height = 120mm
=Weight (2.1kg)
=Has cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
+Top metal panel has grooves for button tabs for easy install/remove

Plexi/Art-
+Has default plexi for custom artwork insertion
+Stock artwork isn't glued or attached to default stock plexi
=Same artwork template as Mayflash v2 - https://mega.co.nz/#!iUUQ0IYY!mYbNwtx3nUbrFTjXnUYf067g4lVwB-hDRMdfJzwppbA

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Has a foam padding on corners
=Does not have feet

Joystick-
=Default Non-branded joystick of average quality with individual microswitches (Microswitch brand unknown)
=Default joystick compatible with Sanwa gates

Buttons-
-Stock Sanwa knockoff buttons of bad quality
=Microswitches use a Seimitsu PS14-G clone switch. It has a very similar feel, the same QD placement, and the same thin microswitch plunger as Seimitsu.
+Easy to replace stock buttons with any standard 30mm button

PCB-
=Common ground PCB
=Has 3 PCBs. One main, one for Start/Select/Turbo/etc, and one for LEDs

Wiring-
=Quick disconnects for action buttons
-Soldered on microswitches for joystick
-Stock joystick wiring to PCB is to 4 individual 2pin connectors and PCB has empty 5pin connector for joystick. This means replacing joystick requires splice of existing wires to 2pin connectors or usage of 5pin connector.

USB Cable-
=Cable Length (3m)
=Utilizes 5pin connector to PCB

===Things I need to edit on this post include===
=Shitloads of pictures of each joystick from stock to interior to PCB etc
=More Information! FEED ME INFO! NEED MORE EXP POINTS FOR KNOWLEDGE LEVEL UP!

↧

Gaming monitor for PS4 24" or 27"?

March 1, 2016, 7:38 am

≫ Next: 3D Printed Parts Thread

≪ Previous: Definitive Retail Playstation 4 Arcade Sticks List with Info/Facts/Photos/Advantages/Disadvantages

Hey guys,

I'm in the market for a new monitor. I currently use a 24" monitor, I am thinking of upgrading to a 27". I know tournaments usually use 24", but this will primarily be hooked up to my PS4. I don't have experience playing on a 27" monitor, is there any drawbacks to using a bigger monitor to play SFV?

What do you guys use?

↧

3D Printed Parts Thread

September 15, 2014, 3:38 pm

≫ Next: Madcatz Street Fighter V Fightstick Alpha

≪ Previous: Gaming monitor for PS4 24" or 27"?

I've seen chatter here and there about 3D printed parts, but nothing centralized. It seems to me to be a good idea to have a place to show off and share our 3D printed parts for arcade sticks. I'll update this main topic with parts as people post them, so this thread can be a helpful repository/link.

- Consider discussing your process, any tips/tricks to printing your part.
- Please also consider making your part available to the community so people can print their own!
- For those without access to a 3D printer, please consider making your part available on Shapeways, which is an on-demand 3D printing service. Their print jobs can be a little pricey, but it's cheaper than a $500 printer!

Parts, in no particular order
MadCatz TE:S button panel replacement by @jrronimo‌ (that's me!)
Printed Corners for an Acrylic Case by @cudbur‌, parts for sale here.
PS-14-KN RG Plunger by @"Pnoy Pryde"‌
OBS-M assembly for Seimitsu PS-14-G switches, | Version 2 (screwless) by @"Pnoy Pryde"‌
Sanwa JLF round gate by @wazwuz
PCB holder for the brooks PS3/PS4 board by @charliedrums

↧

Madcatz Street Fighter V Fightstick Alpha

August 29, 2015, 5:21 pm

≫ Next: PS3 pad for PS4 converter?

≪ Previous: 3D Printed Parts Thread

I'll keep this thread updated with all details of this stick as it's released including links to mods etc once they happen

Madcatz Street Fighter V Fightstick Alpha for PS4/PS3

Release Date-
=Unknown

SRK Front Page article via @d3v -
http://shoryuken.com/2015/08/31/mad-catz-unveils-street-fighter-v-arcade-stick-and-controller

Case-
Fightstick Alpha Case (New/Original Design)
=Weight (Unknown)
=Dimentions (Unknown)
=6 button Vewlix design (Prototype looks like it has a slightly larger gap between LP/LK buttons and MP/MK buttons)

Metal Panels-
=Unknown

Plexi/Art-
=Unlikely to have any future plexi option due to case design (No where to screw in plexi and curved base front)

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Has some type of padding (Specifics unknown)
=Does not appear to have feet in stock photo (Unknown)

Joystick-
=Unknown

Buttons-
=Unknown

PCB-
=Unknown

Wiring-
=Unknown

USB Cable-
=Wired
=Unknown if cable is removable

Finished mods from community-
=Not available at this time

https://twitter.com/MarkMan23/status/641317665286565888

https://twitter.com/madcatz/status/644328595712688128

I won't make too many assumptions, but it looks like a budget stick. (EDIT- It is)
I believe we need more budget sticks on the market to get more new fighting game players familiar with using arcade sticks at a reasonable cost.

The base looks a bit thin by the photo, so I'm unsure if a JLF shaft would clear that. (EDIT- Likely will be high enough to swap joysticks, mentioned mod friendly by MarkMan on Twitter)

May not be Sanwa parts to keep costs low.

It's cooler (6 button) instead of dick (8 button) which is BADASS (This sentence is an SRK Tech Talk inside joke. Don't take it personally)

↧

PS3 pad for PS4 converter?

March 11, 2016, 4:57 pm

≫ Next: How to get my Paewang PCB to work on Windows 10?

≪ Previous: Madcatz Street Fighter V Fightstick Alpha

Whats the best converter to allow for use of a ps3 pad on a ps4? Anyone got any ideas or reviews?

↧