Does anyone have any idea where to buy cheep arcade stick's online. I normally used Amazon but I was wondering if anyone had any idea where to get some cheaper.
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Where to buy cheep arcade stick's online?
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Mod Sanwa JLF with zippy microswitches and actuactor 1mm Arcade paradise
This my mod With Sanwa JLF stick with actuactor 1MM Arcade Paradise and Microswitches Zippy ultralight from arcadewinkel
It´s normal that left directions is little tight than right directions?
It´s normal that with 5-pin to QD Conversion Harness left and right direction have changed?
PD: I don´t know what the matter if i change the pink harness left to right all the directions change
I have use this combination of colour
Connecting Wire Colours for QanBa Q4 RAF:
Crown conversion harness:
RED = UP
ORANGE = DOWN
GREEN = LEFT
YELLOW = RIGHT
BLACK = GROUND
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Fightstick not working PC
My fightstick (Mad Catz SFxT edition) lights up for a brief second when plugged into my PC. after then it goes dark (no input etc). When I plug in a wired Xbox 360 controller it lights up for the same amount of time and then shows the first player quarter circle and works great. Is my stick broken? I have never used this fightstick for this PC before.
If it helps, I have never used this fight stick with this PC before. But in my old computer it was a plug and play since I have plugged in a Xbox 360 controller previously for the drivers.
When I go to the Mad Catz website to download the drivers it asks for me to plug in my fight stick and it doesn't allow me to move onto the next step until doing so. But I do not know if my product is included in the 4 drivers they have (ALPHA, TE2, TE2+, TES+) I tried all 4 and they do not work.
Need help! Thanks
If it helps, I have never used this fight stick with this PC before. But in my old computer it was a plug and play since I have plugged in a Xbox 360 controller previously for the drivers.
When I go to the Mad Catz website to download the drivers it asks for me to plug in my fight stick and it doesn't allow me to move onto the next step until doing so. But I do not know if my product is included in the 4 drivers they have (ALPHA, TE2, TE2+, TES+) I tried all 4 and they do not work.
Need help! Thanks
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Street Fighter X Tekken Arcade Fightstick V.S.
it can also be connected to a 2nd one
like that
it looks really good but the $200 price tag kinda scares me.
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Need help with Hori Fighting Edge
Recently I've noticed that when I put the stick in tournament mode or configuration mode it no longer beeps. Tried it on both pc and ps3 and still nothing. While its a small "issue" I'm just curious what could of caused it. It is also a non modded stick.
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Help Getting a Clear Plexiglass for My Hitbox
Hey, I've been looking around and not having much luck, but does anyone have any recommendations on where I could get a clear plexiglass for my Hitbox? I attempted to contact Hitbox directly, but they never really got back to me. Any help would be much appreciated.
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Change Microswitches Sanwa JLF
The Microswitches of Sanwa Jlf are soldier at PCB?
I want to change the Microswitches of Omron because i think there is snagging with the microswitches are good idea to change by Zippy Microswithches to avoid snagging
I want to change the Microswitches of Omron because i think there is snagging with the microswitches are good idea to change by Zippy Microswithches to avoid snagging
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need urgent help
Good evening,
Do u repair fighsticks?
If yes I need some help.
1. I have a Street Fighter®V Arcade FightStick™ Tournament Edition S+ for PS4 & PS3.
I bought a used one. I changed the old mother board out with a new one, BUT the I don't know how to connect wires that pertain to PS button etc (in that area) to the mother board.
2. I also have a
Mad Catz SFV Arcade Fightstick Tournament Edition 2+ for PlayStation 3 & PlayStation 4
This one --It also was bought used but without a joystick, so i bought a joystick and every time I try to choose a player in Street Fighter it keeps cycling through the list of players and won't let me choose a player.
Do u repair fighsticks?
If yes I need some help.
1. I have a Street Fighter®V Arcade FightStick™ Tournament Edition S+ for PS4 & PS3.
I bought a used one. I changed the old mother board out with a new one, BUT the I don't know how to connect wires that pertain to PS button etc (in that area) to the mother board.
2. I also have a
Mad Catz SFV Arcade Fightstick Tournament Edition 2+ for PlayStation 3 & PlayStation 4
This one --It also was bought used but without a joystick, so i bought a joystick and every time I try to choose a player in Street Fighter it keeps cycling through the list of players and won't let me choose a player.
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Madcatz te2 sfv fightstick problems
Hi, sorry if i am posting wrong or something, i'm new here. WEll here goes, my madcatz te2 sfv fightstick has the x button "stuck" now normally this wouldnt be a problem but the first stick i bough (the same) also had the button stuck and i ended up having to return it(at great cost to me, eat shit amazon) The second one worked, for a year, i played minimally, barely touching it and now it has the same problem, if i check it in "settings" on the pc the x button shows up as stuck, i tested the wire from the square button on the x button and it works fine, even if all the wires are disconnected the x button shows as stuck, anyone else had this problem, can it really be the pcb/wire twice in a row? because if so that is ridiculous an i am getting out of fighting games in general because i've already spent so much fucking time dealing with bullshit and NOT playing.
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Hori Hayabusa Joystick/Control Lever Preliminary FAQ... UPDATED with pictures
Okay, no longer delaying this. Putting it up now!
Hayabusa FAQ Version 1.1
Compiled and ordered by GeorgeC
![Hayabusa-4_zps2cf50419.jpg]()
NOTE: The information in this text is up-to-date as of April 30, 2014...
Revisions by the original author and others may follow as new information and corrections flow in.
Hayabusa Part Introduction - mid-2012/June 2012; debuted as exclusive Hori OEM part on Hori Fighting Edge joystick marketed for Sony Playstation 3 and Microsoft XBox 360.
First reviewed in online blogs/websites in late April/early May 2012 by joystick enthusiasts who received pre-production or early production Fighting Edge joysticks from Hori.
More detailed analysis of the Hayabusa itself would wait until late January 2014 when Hori finally did a separate release of the Hayabusa.
Early analyses by Fighting Edge owners indicated a joystick with "Seimitsu-like" performance but without specifics on WHICH Seimitsu joystick the Hayabusa most closely resembled and what specific characteristics the Hayabusa displayed.
The Hayabusa is a digital joystick/control lever with 8-eight directional function. The stock Hayabusa joystick is equipped with non-levered microswitches, a single JLF-spec cloned spring, and a square restrictor gate that is integrated/molded into the baseplate of the assembled joystick stack.
Fully Assembled Hayabusa Joystick Stack
Height is close to 4 inches; roughly equivalent to the LS-32-01 stack in height and very close to the JLF-TP-8YT-SK
The bulk of the Hayabusa base makes it closer to the LS-32-01 in appearance
Without the balltop handle screwed on, the JLF/LS-32/Hayabusa joysticks are closer to 3 inches height.
JLF and Hayabusa shafts have identical faceplate clearances and shaft heights above the pivot bearings.
The LS-32/LS-40 shafts have noteably shorter shaft heights above their pivot bearings. Their faceplate clearance shortages are made up mostly through the use of the Seimitsu SS Mounting Plate that shifts their assembled joystick shafts further upward and against the underside of the faceplate of the joystick case. Since the LS-32/LS-40 have maximum contact with the faceplate underside in that situation, this prevents or impedes useage of a secondary dustwasher on top of the LS-joystick pivots (below the faceplate).
![AssembledStickHts_zps4c636e8a.jpg]()
Pictured left to right: Hori Hayabusa, Sanwa JLF, Seimitsu LS-32-01
Hayabusa Mounting Plate
Hayabusa Mounting Plate has noticeably wider width than the JLF P-1 Mounting Plate but with identical hole positions for screwing on the Mounting Plate and faceplate installations; HMP is interchangeable with JLF P-1 MP but it is recommended to use original Hori Mounting Plate screws with the Hayabusa base with JLF P-1 installations as the screw pitches (distance between threading) of the MP screws are completely different; Hayabusa base uses screws with wider pitch than the JLF base's to install the HMP. It is highly recommended to reuse the Hayabusa MP screws in situations where it may be more desirable to use the JLF P-1MP itself with the Hayabusa base.
The Hayabusa base is incompatible with Seimitsu mounting plates...
It would be recommended to use the JLF P-1 Mounting Plate in situations where the width of the Hayabusa Mounting Plate might impact interior plastics or create situations where further internal joystick case mods might otherwise be necessary.
The HMP in general has proven to be compatible with most mass-production joystick cases on market. Situations in specific joystick cases (Agetec/Sega Dreamcast Joystick, PDP/Qanba Injustic joystick) cases do exist where an alternate Mounting Plate (JLF P-1MP) or no mounting plate might be preferrable, though.
![CompatibleMPs_zpse46d321b.jpg]()
Pictured: Hayabusa MP by Sanwa JLF P-1. Note greater thickness of Hayabusa MP which may necessitate replacement of stock Hori Hayabusa MP and use of Sanwa JLF P-1 in some joystick cases...
![HMPonTP1_zpsd25c21c6.jpg]()
Pictured: Overlay of Hayabusa Mounting Plate over Sanwa JLF P-1 MP. Holes lines up exactly!
Balltop Handle
35mm Japanese arcade part spec; most similar to the Sanwa balltop spec but with thicker metal screw insert in the balltop plastic;
flat area on bottom of Hayabusa balltop handle similar to Sanwa balltop handle. More metal area as opposed to more flat plastic on
Sanwa balltop...
![JLFHStickBalltops_zpsb085b93e.jpg]()
Pictured: Red Sanwa balltop handle, black Hayabusa balltop handle
9mm length screw-in area; 6mm diameter screw thread
Balltop handle adds roughly 1-inch height to Hayabusa stack (fully asssembled joystick); actual height addition just over 1-inch or close to 26mm
Hayabusa Shaft
For all intents and purposes, the Hayabusa shaft and shaft parts are clones to the JLF shaft; the Hayabusa shaft is incompatible with the Seimitsu LS-32 shaft as the LS-32 shaft is thicker and parts between these two are incompatible;
![3shaftcomparison_zps760bf101.jpg]()
Pictured left to right: Hori Hayabusa, Sanwa JLF, and Seimitsu LS-32 shaft assemblies
other LS-joystick shafts are thinner than the JLF and Hayabusa; like the LS-32, their parts are incompatible with the JLF and Hayabusa with notable exceptions => RE: Seimitsu shaftcover mod to fit shaftcover onto JLF and Hayabusa; the inner hole of the Seimitsu dustwasher (LS-40/-55/-56/-58 style or LS-32) needs to be widened to allow useage with the Hayabusa and JLF (covered) shafts.
It is the opinion of several Hayabusa owners that the plastics used in the Hayabusa shaft assembly are higher-quality and more durable than both Seimitsu and Sanwa parts.
Noteable changes from the JLF: black-painted shaft, black-painted E-ring, dark grey pivot bearing with indentations; JLF pivot bearing is solid white plastic with no indentations; E-ring retainer is different on the Hayabusa shaft
Actuator, spring holder, spring, metal base washer all appear to be JLF-spec clones... plastics where used, again, may be higher quality
![HStickJLFShaftAssemblies_zpsf4cb89c0.jpg]()
Pictured: Hayabusa and JLF shaft assembly pieces
Hayabusa Shaft Cover and Dustwashers
The Hayabusa shaft cover is so far available only in molded black plastic. The shaftcover is JLF-spec and appears indistinguishable from the Sanwa-manufactured part.
The Hayabusa shaft cover is cross-compatible with the JLF. All aftermarket JLF shaft covers are compatible with the Hayabusa shaft... these include aftermarket shaftcover choices from Sanwa, Mad Catz, Qanba, and the custom-made aluminum JLF shaft covers available through arcade parts vendors.
The Hayabusa dustwasher is produced to JLF-spec with respect to both shaft hole width and overall width. The differences from the Sanwa JLF (shaftcover hole) dustwasher included shorter dustwasher height and an upper dustwasher texture that is sand-like as opposed to the mosaic/"broken tile" texture of the JLF dustwasher. Again, all aftermarket alternate JLF dustwashers are also compatible with the Hayabusa shaft. These include dustwashers from Sanwa, Mad Catz, Qanba, arcade parts vendors, Art Hong/Tek Innovations plexi dustwashers, and the aluminum dustwashers generally available with aluminum shaftcover kits.
![ShaftDustcoversHStickJLF_zps99fcc6fa.jpg]()
Pictured: Hori Hayabusa shaft cover and dustwasher on left half of picture; Sanwa JLF counterparts on right
Hayabusa Base
The Hayabusa base uses JLF-spec clone shaft parts with JLF-spec attachment points for the Hayabusa Mounting Plate. The Hayabusa base may also be mounted onto "non-universal" HRAP faceplates (HRAP 1b, "HRAP-lite" licensed variants for the PS2, "vanilla" HRAP 3) without the HMP. The Hayabusa base has screw-on attachment points in common areas to the JLF base's screw-in "wing" positions.
Note that the difference in mounting height without the HMP attached is roughly 1.25mm
![CommonHRAP3MountPts_zps3c66c30a.jpg]()
Pictured: "Wing attachment" points in common between the Hori Hayabusa base and the Sanwa JLF; joystick bases are shown 'naked' without the usual mounting plates screwed on; JLF wing attachments are shown circled in blue lining up with common wing attachment points in red on the Hayabusa base
The assembled Hayabusa base appearance, bulk, and general base construction is more like the LS-32-01 than the JLF.
![BottomAssembliesHStickLS32_zps74dccc7d.jpg]()
Pictured above: Hayabusa base versus Seimitsu LS-32-01
![BottomAssembliesHStickJLF_zps75e42cdb.jpg]()
Pictured above: Hayabusa base versus Sanwa JLF
Hayabusa Microswitches
The OEM Hayabusa microswitches appear to be non-levered versions of the Matsushita/Panasonic microswitches used in the Seimitsu LS-56 series joystick. Unlike the LS-32-01 and JLF substrates, the Hayabusa microswitches are NOT soldered into a PCB board. Instead, the Hayabusa microswitches have soldered wiring connections that lead into a common 5-prong adapter on a very small PCB wafer situated on the outside of the Hayabusa. The Hayabusa 5-prong adapter is in a position similar to the 5-prong interfaces on the LS-32-01 and JLF.
It appears that only two of the H-stick microswitches share a common ground wire.
![BasesSwitches_zps68b18680.jpg]()
Pictured above, left to right: Bases of the Hayabusa, Sanwa JLF, and Seimitsu LS-32-01 with baseplates and restrictor gates removed. The visible microtabs of the Hayabusa base microswitches have been highlighted in yellow...
Levered microswitches of the LS-56 variety can be used in the Hayabusa with a minor Dremel modification to H-base and no soldering required. This can be accomplished by simply removing the internal parts of the existing microswitches and swapping with the levered parts of the replacments. The original casings of the stock H-base microswitches are reused by prying them open with a small screwdriver and snapping back together after internal part replacement...
Alternately, replacement LS-56 variety microswitches with levers can be mounted replacing the original Hayabusa microswitches
completely. However, more extensive base modding is required since 0.187 prong tabs can impact the existing Hayabusa base; switch
wiring may not have enough clearance with the 0.187 quick disconnects used with this modification... in addition to making room for the LS-56 microswitch levered tabs, holes would have to be cut in the H-base to allow the 0.187 tabs clearance. In this case, the 5-prong adapter can be discarded and replaced with a converter harness as used with other 0.187-tabbed joysticks (such as the Crown CWJ-303FK and LS-32/non-PCB version). This is a more involved modification but bypasses the issue of desoldering the original microswitches and having to solder new microswitches should the original microswitches fail.
Swapping out of entire microswitch assemblies is generally easier in the long run than desoldering OEM parts or replacing small
lever parts in the original microswitch casings.
Hayabusa Restrictor Gate
The restrictor gate on the Hayabusa is integrated into the baseplate of the Hayabusa stack. The assembly itself is held together by four base screws running through the baseplate similar to the LS-32-01 and the Hori OEM joystick on the American Tekken 5 10th Anniversary joystick.
It is not practical to top the main restrictor gate with an subguide gate as is the case with the LS-32(-01) and LS-40(-01). No screw-in points exist to place a subguide on top of the H-base and the actuator sits too low for a modifying subguide to be useful.
The entire Hayabusa baseplate should be removed and replaced with a new restrictor gate part or baseplate for restricted movement (2-way/4-way) or octo restrictor guides if desired.
A simple mod has proven that it is possible to integrate a JLF octo-gate onto the Hayabusa; again, the stock Hayabusa
baseplate must be removed... there are common points on the JLF restrictor gate assembly that can be drilled out for screw-on
installation of the JLF square- or octo-gate... This mod approach was first used to integrate JLF's (without the JP-1MP) onto the Hori mounting bracket on the American Tekken 5 10th Anniversary joysticks.
![SideView5prongs_zps1aefe547.jpg]()
Pictured: Bases of Hayabusa, JLF, and LS-32-01 with square restrictor gates clearly visible.
Abbreviations:
H-stick = assembled Hayabusa joystick stack complete with the Hayabusa Mounting Plate
H-base = Hayabuse base; generally referring to the plastic sections of the Hayabusa joystick and specifically the areas which
contain the microswitches and baseplate with integrated restrictor gate.
HMP = Hori Mounting Plate specifically designed for the Hayabusa but with anchor and screw-in points in common with
the JLF P-1 Mounting Plate
JLF P1-MP / JP-1MP = JLF P-1 Mounting Plate; the alternate, most compatible MP for the Hayabusa
Thanks to for Moonchilde, Darksakul, and Sethian0 for their observations and practical Hayabusa mod guides.
If I forgot to acknowledge anyone else's input, please tell me and I will put your name in on future FAQ revisions!
I have 22 photos taken of the Hayabusa, JLF, and LS-32-01 assembled and disassembled... I will incorporate these into the FAQ over the next few days...
Another post will follow this FAQ with my initial impressions on this joystick.
Hayabusa FAQ Version 1.1
Compiled and ordered by GeorgeC
NOTE: The information in this text is up-to-date as of April 30, 2014...
Revisions by the original author and others may follow as new information and corrections flow in.
Hayabusa Part Introduction - mid-2012/June 2012; debuted as exclusive Hori OEM part on Hori Fighting Edge joystick marketed for Sony Playstation 3 and Microsoft XBox 360.
First reviewed in online blogs/websites in late April/early May 2012 by joystick enthusiasts who received pre-production or early production Fighting Edge joysticks from Hori.
More detailed analysis of the Hayabusa itself would wait until late January 2014 when Hori finally did a separate release of the Hayabusa.
Early analyses by Fighting Edge owners indicated a joystick with "Seimitsu-like" performance but without specifics on WHICH Seimitsu joystick the Hayabusa most closely resembled and what specific characteristics the Hayabusa displayed.
The Hayabusa is a digital joystick/control lever with 8-eight directional function. The stock Hayabusa joystick is equipped with non-levered microswitches, a single JLF-spec cloned spring, and a square restrictor gate that is integrated/molded into the baseplate of the assembled joystick stack.
Fully Assembled Hayabusa Joystick Stack
Height is close to 4 inches; roughly equivalent to the LS-32-01 stack in height and very close to the JLF-TP-8YT-SK
The bulk of the Hayabusa base makes it closer to the LS-32-01 in appearance
Without the balltop handle screwed on, the JLF/LS-32/Hayabusa joysticks are closer to 3 inches height.
JLF and Hayabusa shafts have identical faceplate clearances and shaft heights above the pivot bearings.
The LS-32/LS-40 shafts have noteably shorter shaft heights above their pivot bearings. Their faceplate clearance shortages are made up mostly through the use of the Seimitsu SS Mounting Plate that shifts their assembled joystick shafts further upward and against the underside of the faceplate of the joystick case. Since the LS-32/LS-40 have maximum contact with the faceplate underside in that situation, this prevents or impedes useage of a secondary dustwasher on top of the LS-joystick pivots (below the faceplate).
Pictured left to right: Hori Hayabusa, Sanwa JLF, Seimitsu LS-32-01
Hayabusa Mounting Plate
Hayabusa Mounting Plate has noticeably wider width than the JLF P-1 Mounting Plate but with identical hole positions for screwing on the Mounting Plate and faceplate installations; HMP is interchangeable with JLF P-1 MP but it is recommended to use original Hori Mounting Plate screws with the Hayabusa base with JLF P-1 installations as the screw pitches (distance between threading) of the MP screws are completely different; Hayabusa base uses screws with wider pitch than the JLF base's to install the HMP. It is highly recommended to reuse the Hayabusa MP screws in situations where it may be more desirable to use the JLF P-1MP itself with the Hayabusa base.
The Hayabusa base is incompatible with Seimitsu mounting plates...
It would be recommended to use the JLF P-1 Mounting Plate in situations where the width of the Hayabusa Mounting Plate might impact interior plastics or create situations where further internal joystick case mods might otherwise be necessary.
The HMP in general has proven to be compatible with most mass-production joystick cases on market. Situations in specific joystick cases (Agetec/Sega Dreamcast Joystick, PDP/Qanba Injustic joystick) cases do exist where an alternate Mounting Plate (JLF P-1MP) or no mounting plate might be preferrable, though.
Pictured: Hayabusa MP by Sanwa JLF P-1. Note greater thickness of Hayabusa MP which may necessitate replacement of stock Hori Hayabusa MP and use of Sanwa JLF P-1 in some joystick cases...
Pictured: Overlay of Hayabusa Mounting Plate over Sanwa JLF P-1 MP. Holes lines up exactly!
Balltop Handle
35mm Japanese arcade part spec; most similar to the Sanwa balltop spec but with thicker metal screw insert in the balltop plastic;
flat area on bottom of Hayabusa balltop handle similar to Sanwa balltop handle. More metal area as opposed to more flat plastic on
Sanwa balltop...
Pictured: Red Sanwa balltop handle, black Hayabusa balltop handle
9mm length screw-in area; 6mm diameter screw thread
Balltop handle adds roughly 1-inch height to Hayabusa stack (fully asssembled joystick); actual height addition just over 1-inch or close to 26mm
Hayabusa Shaft
For all intents and purposes, the Hayabusa shaft and shaft parts are clones to the JLF shaft; the Hayabusa shaft is incompatible with the Seimitsu LS-32 shaft as the LS-32 shaft is thicker and parts between these two are incompatible;
Pictured left to right: Hori Hayabusa, Sanwa JLF, and Seimitsu LS-32 shaft assemblies
other LS-joystick shafts are thinner than the JLF and Hayabusa; like the LS-32, their parts are incompatible with the JLF and Hayabusa with notable exceptions => RE: Seimitsu shaftcover mod to fit shaftcover onto JLF and Hayabusa; the inner hole of the Seimitsu dustwasher (LS-40/-55/-56/-58 style or LS-32) needs to be widened to allow useage with the Hayabusa and JLF (covered) shafts.
It is the opinion of several Hayabusa owners that the plastics used in the Hayabusa shaft assembly are higher-quality and more durable than both Seimitsu and Sanwa parts.
Noteable changes from the JLF: black-painted shaft, black-painted E-ring, dark grey pivot bearing with indentations; JLF pivot bearing is solid white plastic with no indentations; E-ring retainer is different on the Hayabusa shaft
Actuator, spring holder, spring, metal base washer all appear to be JLF-spec clones... plastics where used, again, may be higher quality
Pictured: Hayabusa and JLF shaft assembly pieces
Hayabusa Shaft Cover and Dustwashers
The Hayabusa shaft cover is so far available only in molded black plastic. The shaftcover is JLF-spec and appears indistinguishable from the Sanwa-manufactured part.
The Hayabusa shaft cover is cross-compatible with the JLF. All aftermarket JLF shaft covers are compatible with the Hayabusa shaft... these include aftermarket shaftcover choices from Sanwa, Mad Catz, Qanba, and the custom-made aluminum JLF shaft covers available through arcade parts vendors.
The Hayabusa dustwasher is produced to JLF-spec with respect to both shaft hole width and overall width. The differences from the Sanwa JLF (shaftcover hole) dustwasher included shorter dustwasher height and an upper dustwasher texture that is sand-like as opposed to the mosaic/"broken tile" texture of the JLF dustwasher. Again, all aftermarket alternate JLF dustwashers are also compatible with the Hayabusa shaft. These include dustwashers from Sanwa, Mad Catz, Qanba, arcade parts vendors, Art Hong/Tek Innovations plexi dustwashers, and the aluminum dustwashers generally available with aluminum shaftcover kits.
Pictured: Hori Hayabusa shaft cover and dustwasher on left half of picture; Sanwa JLF counterparts on right
Hayabusa Base
The Hayabusa base uses JLF-spec clone shaft parts with JLF-spec attachment points for the Hayabusa Mounting Plate. The Hayabusa base may also be mounted onto "non-universal" HRAP faceplates (HRAP 1b, "HRAP-lite" licensed variants for the PS2, "vanilla" HRAP 3) without the HMP. The Hayabusa base has screw-on attachment points in common areas to the JLF base's screw-in "wing" positions.
Note that the difference in mounting height without the HMP attached is roughly 1.25mm
Pictured: "Wing attachment" points in common between the Hori Hayabusa base and the Sanwa JLF; joystick bases are shown 'naked' without the usual mounting plates screwed on; JLF wing attachments are shown circled in blue lining up with common wing attachment points in red on the Hayabusa base
The assembled Hayabusa base appearance, bulk, and general base construction is more like the LS-32-01 than the JLF.
Pictured above: Hayabusa base versus Seimitsu LS-32-01
Pictured above: Hayabusa base versus Sanwa JLF
Hayabusa Microswitches
The OEM Hayabusa microswitches appear to be non-levered versions of the Matsushita/Panasonic microswitches used in the Seimitsu LS-56 series joystick. Unlike the LS-32-01 and JLF substrates, the Hayabusa microswitches are NOT soldered into a PCB board. Instead, the Hayabusa microswitches have soldered wiring connections that lead into a common 5-prong adapter on a very small PCB wafer situated on the outside of the Hayabusa. The Hayabusa 5-prong adapter is in a position similar to the 5-prong interfaces on the LS-32-01 and JLF.
It appears that only two of the H-stick microswitches share a common ground wire.
Pictured above, left to right: Bases of the Hayabusa, Sanwa JLF, and Seimitsu LS-32-01 with baseplates and restrictor gates removed. The visible microtabs of the Hayabusa base microswitches have been highlighted in yellow...
Levered microswitches of the LS-56 variety can be used in the Hayabusa with a minor Dremel modification to H-base and no soldering required. This can be accomplished by simply removing the internal parts of the existing microswitches and swapping with the levered parts of the replacments. The original casings of the stock H-base microswitches are reused by prying them open with a small screwdriver and snapping back together after internal part replacement...
Alternately, replacement LS-56 variety microswitches with levers can be mounted replacing the original Hayabusa microswitches
completely. However, more extensive base modding is required since 0.187 prong tabs can impact the existing Hayabusa base; switch
wiring may not have enough clearance with the 0.187 quick disconnects used with this modification... in addition to making room for the LS-56 microswitch levered tabs, holes would have to be cut in the H-base to allow the 0.187 tabs clearance. In this case, the 5-prong adapter can be discarded and replaced with a converter harness as used with other 0.187-tabbed joysticks (such as the Crown CWJ-303FK and LS-32/non-PCB version). This is a more involved modification but bypasses the issue of desoldering the original microswitches and having to solder new microswitches should the original microswitches fail.
Swapping out of entire microswitch assemblies is generally easier in the long run than desoldering OEM parts or replacing small
lever parts in the original microswitch casings.
Hayabusa Restrictor Gate
The restrictor gate on the Hayabusa is integrated into the baseplate of the Hayabusa stack. The assembly itself is held together by four base screws running through the baseplate similar to the LS-32-01 and the Hori OEM joystick on the American Tekken 5 10th Anniversary joystick.
It is not practical to top the main restrictor gate with an subguide gate as is the case with the LS-32(-01) and LS-40(-01). No screw-in points exist to place a subguide on top of the H-base and the actuator sits too low for a modifying subguide to be useful.
The entire Hayabusa baseplate should be removed and replaced with a new restrictor gate part or baseplate for restricted movement (2-way/4-way) or octo restrictor guides if desired.
A simple mod has proven that it is possible to integrate a JLF octo-gate onto the Hayabusa; again, the stock Hayabusa
baseplate must be removed... there are common points on the JLF restrictor gate assembly that can be drilled out for screw-on
installation of the JLF square- or octo-gate... This mod approach was first used to integrate JLF's (without the JP-1MP) onto the Hori mounting bracket on the American Tekken 5 10th Anniversary joysticks.
Pictured: Bases of Hayabusa, JLF, and LS-32-01 with square restrictor gates clearly visible.
Abbreviations:
H-stick = assembled Hayabusa joystick stack complete with the Hayabusa Mounting Plate
H-base = Hayabuse base; generally referring to the plastic sections of the Hayabusa joystick and specifically the areas which
contain the microswitches and baseplate with integrated restrictor gate.
HMP = Hori Mounting Plate specifically designed for the Hayabusa but with anchor and screw-in points in common with
the JLF P-1 Mounting Plate
JLF P1-MP / JP-1MP = JLF P-1 Mounting Plate; the alternate, most compatible MP for the Hayabusa
Thanks to for Moonchilde, Darksakul, and Sethian0 for their observations and practical Hayabusa mod guides.
If I forgot to acknowledge anyone else's input, please tell me and I will put your name in on future FAQ revisions!
I have 22 photos taken of the Hayabusa, JLF, and LS-32-01 assembled and disassembled... I will incorporate these into the FAQ over the next few days...
Another post will follow this FAQ with my initial impressions on this joystick.
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Question about panel builder plexiglass
http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/index.cfm?loc=panelbuilder&act=hrap
I'm wondering if there's anyway I can extract the file from this panel builder to make my own file, so I can get the specs and exact layout, so I can have a metal plate instead of a plexi-glass custom made for my stick.
The problem with that panel builder is that it doesn't have a korean myoungshin fanta joystick to replace the JLF joystick screw holes and would have to edit it.
If there's another site that offers the templates, I could also use that. I just need a HRAP template that has all the buttons layout / stick with the specs/measurement (then I can edit the holes for a korean sticksetup) and have it sent to a vendor that laser cuts them out for me.
Thanks.
I'm wondering if there's anyway I can extract the file from this panel builder to make my own file, so I can get the specs and exact layout, so I can have a metal plate instead of a plexi-glass custom made for my stick.
The problem with that panel builder is that it doesn't have a korean myoungshin fanta joystick to replace the JLF joystick screw holes and would have to edit it.
If there's another site that offers the templates, I could also use that. I just need a HRAP template that has all the buttons layout / stick with the specs/measurement (then I can edit the holes for a korean sticksetup) and have it sent to a vendor that laser cuts them out for me.
Thanks.
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HORI RAP4 mod SEIMITSU
Hello,
I'm a noob with modding.. So it would be my first time.
I own a RAP4 and want to replace the stick with a SEIMITSU LS-58-01.
Is it possible ?
If yes, which mounting plate should i pick ? (MS, VF, SS-P-40, SE-P-40)
And would the SEIMITSU PS-14-K 30MM SNAP IN ARCADE BUTTON be fine ? (i love them but don't know if they'll fit the rap4)
Thanks
Best regards
I'm a noob with modding.. So it would be my first time.
I own a RAP4 and want to replace the stick with a SEIMITSU LS-58-01.
Is it possible ?
If yes, which mounting plate should i pick ? (MS, VF, SS-P-40, SE-P-40)
And would the SEIMITSU PS-14-K 30MM SNAP IN ARCADE BUTTON be fine ? (i love them but don't know if they'll fit the rap4)
Thanks
Best regards
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File could not be found
Hi all.
The problem is when opening doc format file in Microsoft Word I'm receiving an error, ‘File could not be found’.
Also I cannot open the file in LibreOffice.
I'm running Windows 8
Any ideas how to fix doc file? Will really appreciate.
The problem is when opening doc format file in Microsoft Word I'm receiving an error, ‘File could not be found’.
Also I cannot open the file in LibreOffice.
I'm running Windows 8
Any ideas how to fix doc file? Will really appreciate.
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Need help edit template please.
I have the template already but need to edit it. The original template comes with sanwa joystick / buttons
here's the link for it. http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/downloads/Art Hobbies HRAP1 and T5 Template.psd
I need to replaced the main 8 buttons with 28 MM american buttons and added an extra 24 MM japanese button at the top right.
like in this pic : http://imgur.com/a/BienZ
How hard would it be for someone to change this setup for me? I know tek-innovations sells the replacement, but he doesn't offer a korean stick setup and hasn't responded to my e-mails, so I would like to know if someone skilled could edit this for me so I could take this to a laser cutting shop and have them laser cut me a 1/32 inch steel replacement top instead of using plexi, so I don't have to worry about it cracking.
I need to change the joystick screw holes to match a korean fanta stick. Heres the measurement for the korean fanta , different from the default in the custom panel builder
[img][/img]![if2afk.jpg]()
jlf stick that comes default in the panel builder measurements
![sanwa_JLFP1__92730.1394135865.1280.1280.jpg?c=2]()
I would appreciate it a lot if someone could be of help. thanks!
here's the link for it. http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/downloads/Art Hobbies HRAP1 and T5 Template.psd
I need to replaced the main 8 buttons with 28 MM american buttons and added an extra 24 MM japanese button at the top right.
like in this pic : http://imgur.com/a/BienZ
How hard would it be for someone to change this setup for me? I know tek-innovations sells the replacement, but he doesn't offer a korean stick setup and hasn't responded to my e-mails, so I would like to know if someone skilled could edit this for me so I could take this to a laser cutting shop and have them laser cut me a 1/32 inch steel replacement top instead of using plexi, so I don't have to worry about it cracking.
I need to change the joystick screw holes to match a korean fanta stick. Heres the measurement for the korean fanta , different from the default in the custom panel builder
[img][/img]
jlf stick that comes default in the panel builder measurements
I would appreciate it a lot if someone could be of help. thanks!
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Has anyone ever used the 8BITDO FC30 Pro Wireless Bluetooth Controller for a fighting game?
I have a friend who really loves the original Killer Instinct on SNES. He was pretty good at it and he loved the SNES controller. I have been trying to get him into the new on on Xbox One but I think he has a hard time with that stock controller. I wanted to know if anyone has used this controller for a fighting game, and now responsive it is? If not, what is a good alternative for the Xbox One as far as controllers go? He can't use an arcade stick and he doesn't like the 6 button layout. Is there something he can use that is similar to a SNES controller? Also I have a titan one adapter so pretty much any USB controller will work. He likes the PlayStation controller but the analog sticks get it the way.
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Help! Can a Crown CWJ 303n Fit into a Hori RAP 4 KAI?
Tell me some directions to fit a Crown 303n please.
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Small mod tip for Madcatz TE2 + Sanwa OBSN-30 Screw In
Hello all,
Might as well share this don't know if this has been discussed if so my apologies. Snap in buttons that came with the stick are so brittle as a result they pretty much are all broken once i removed them never again...so screw in it is.
You can use all Sanwa OBSN-30 screw in buttons on a Madcatz TE2 previously the placement of a screw in button (nut) on the left K button would not fit it would interfere with the joystick bracket. And not a fan of bending the bracket...
However i thought i would cut the nut of the button in half so it would fit but this causes to much work. So i ordered one Seimitsu PS-14-GN screw in button, removed the nut and used it on the Sanwa one perfect fit and no more clearance issues with the joystick bracket:
![DSC_0219_zpsxez50pxt.jpg]()
![DSC_0220_zpsp8tlmcsf.jpg]()
Might as well share this don't know if this has been discussed if so my apologies. Snap in buttons that came with the stick are so brittle as a result they pretty much are all broken once i removed them never again...so screw in it is.
You can use all Sanwa OBSN-30 screw in buttons on a Madcatz TE2 previously the placement of a screw in button (nut) on the left K button would not fit it would interfere with the joystick bracket. And not a fan of bending the bracket...
However i thought i would cut the nut of the button in half so it would fit but this causes to much work. So i ordered one Seimitsu PS-14-GN screw in button, removed the nut and used it on the Sanwa one perfect fit and no more clearance issues with the joystick bracket:
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SFV - LEGACY CONTROLLER RANDOM DISCONNECT
Hey,
So I got problem. I feel like after Kolin's update my Madcatz TE1 PS3 stick is randomly disconnecting from legacy mode. It can be 3 minutes, or 40 minutes and it just turns off. I don't know if it's because of the update or it's quincidence but anyway It stopps working randomly on PS4. I have every options like shutting down etc. turned to never so It's not battery or power issue. Any help ? I'm on PS4 btw.
So I got problem. I feel like after Kolin's update my Madcatz TE1 PS3 stick is randomly disconnecting from legacy mode. It can be 3 minutes, or 40 minutes and it just turns off. I don't know if it's because of the update or it's quincidence but anyway It stopps working randomly on PS4. I have every options like shutting down etc. turned to never so It's not battery or power issue. Any help ? I'm on PS4 btw.
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Need PCB Button pinout for HRAP V3 SA
I want to use the small buttons that are on this pcb can someone show me where I can solder wires to these buttons? Anybody got a pinout for this board? Here's a pic of the board.
SW1=Turbo
SW2=Home
SW3=L3
SW4=R3
![IMG_20170309_195807.jpg]()
SW1=Turbo
SW2=Home
SW3=L3
SW4=R3
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Project Size
Hello good afternoon. Could you help me with this project, this box? I can not find the measures for him. Would anyone have to make it available? Thanks for the help. I'm waiting.
http://i.imgur.com/ZkrikPb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/w36p2fg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CdkNHJW.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZkrikPb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/w36p2fg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CdkNHJW.jpg
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